Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
